5 skincare trends to avoid
Yeah, I know. Sorry to be a downer but there is a lot of NOT great advice on the internet. Following trends and changing your products every month will not help you heal your skin. My skin did not improve until I started using targeted treatments for my skin concerns and stuck to a consistent routine, pushed through the purging, and came out on the other side with fairly clear and balanced skin. Some of these may not necessarily be viral trends, but they are certainly things I have seen circulating and I do not recommend them ever. :)
Skipping your SPF
This one….really gets me.
I have seen numerous folks who are popular in the “wellness” communities claim that SPF is harmful and shouldn’t be used. My answer to this is that these people have no idea what they’re talking about. If you ask them why, they will likely claim it is because of harmful chemicals. Which, if you don’t like chemical sunscreen, that’s fine. You can easily switch to a mineral-based sunscreen and continue to protect yourself from sun damage.
I also saw someone claim that they wouldn’t wear sunscreen because you can’t eat it…which is a long story for another day. But to keep it short, this shouldn’t be your meter for what’s safe to put on your skin. Our skin absorbs and processes things differently than when we ingest things. This is why you can wash your hands daily with soap with no issues, but if you were to eat soap…well you would probably be spending a lot of time in the bathroom.
Please wear your SPF. <3
2. Snail mucin
Sorry for this one, but no I don’t recommend snail mucin to my clients. This has been a trend for some time now and many people have claimed it to be a cure-all for various skin conditions.
Outside of anecdotal claims, there isn’t a lot of clinical data on how well snail mucin works for the skin. This is the biggest reason that I don’t recommend it. A few studies have been done and they did show some benefits like improved texture and hydration. But you can get those results from numerous skincare products and ingredients that aren’t snail mucin. Also, if you are concerned about animal welfare, the retrieval of mucin is questionable. Some brands reveal more about their process than others, but this was my first concern when clients started asking about it.
So why are people raving about it? Well, it is an occlusive product, so it provides a protective layer over the skin and forces your skin to absorb the moisture and serums you’ve given it. This process, aptly named “slugging” can be achieved with any occlusive, like Vaseline. Slugging is great for people with compromised skin barriers and dry skin, but not so great for people struggling with acne and oily skin.
I advise my clients to steer clear of skincare trends. Just because it worked for that person doesn’t mean it’s what you need.
3. the ordinary “vampire peel”
I am honestly not a fan of the ordinary in general. I appreciate their approach and the desire to make skincare more affordable, however, every client I encounter who uses one of these products tells me that they haven’t noticed a difference since they began.
This particular product is not something I would ever recommend for home use to a client. This is a 30% AHA and 2% BHA peel. To offer this same level of chemical peel to my clients, I was required to take additional training hours by a state-approved program. Chemical peels are great for many people, but it is important to do them under the guidance of an esthetician or dermatologist.
No ethical esthetician will give any client who walks through their door a chemical peel. Not everyone is a good candidate for a peel. There are many different formulations and percentages to meet specific skin needs. It is also SO important that clients be on tyrosinase inhibitors prior to the chemical peel to limit the risk of hyperpigmentation developing. You can cause damage to your skin if you are not prepping correctly and not following aftercare diligently. Because of these factors, I never recommend clients use this at home.
4. coconut oil
This trend has been circling for some time now, with folks seemingly trying to compete in how many ways they can use coconut oil. Coconut oil is best left in the pantry and out of your skincare routine. I read an article that said in the same sentence, that coconut oil may be good for people with acne but it is comedogenic. Like what? Coconut oil IS highly comedogenic, meaning it is a pore-clogging ingredient. But this means it is going to be a nightmare for folks who are acne prone or already struggling with clogged pores.
I am a big fan of oil cleansers but opt for non-comedogenic ones like jojoba oil or argan oil. If you need a product that is anti-microbial, Circadia’s Micro-exfoliating Honey Cleanser or Magic Molecule Hypochlorous Acid spray are great alternatives.
5. various very wrong claims about acne & how to treat it
First, let’s talk about what acne IS. The development of acne involves numerous factors, both external and internal. Acne-prone individuals often experience excess sebum production, excess keratinization, and changes in the skin's microbiome - particularly an imbalance of P. acnes. Acne can be a signifier that something is off-balance internally, some people (estheticians included!) have made some really wild claims about acne.
The most recent (and most bizarre) one that I saw was an esthetician claiming that acne is caused by thickened blood. This is wildly inaccurate and also not a claim we as estheticians can make. We are not doctors and without running tests, no one would know if you have thickened blood or not. Also, if you have thickened blood you have an even bigger risk than acne, you will be at risk for a stroke! Imagine going to an esthetician to treat your acne and you leave thinking you have thickened blood. That’s wild and not something I would ever want to put my clients through. It’s also just VERY wrong. This is why I am very oppositional to pseudo-science and to “woo” (sorry, Portland). They use language that sounds medically accurate, but it is very misleading and sometimes very harmful. Every service I provide uses products, ingredients, and knowledge that is backed by clinical data and real science.
